Backpacking Through Africa 12 Bolsheviks

 
Mrs. Roche is a fascinating woman. She is Polish by birth, Janina Jurkowska. As a young girl, the Bolsheviks exiled her along with thousands of compatriots to Siberia. Later, she ended up in Iran and India before sailing to Tanzania and then Kenya.  Her brother joined the British colonial police and was killed by Mau Mau rebels in the 1950s. Her husband, half Irish and half Indian, died twenty years ago, and their children now live in Canada.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 11: Mrs Roche's

 
Her hotel is popular among travelers due to its pleasant homely atmosphere. It consists of a wooden house and two barracks – one with dormitories, the other with sanitary facilities. In the kitchen, where breakfast is served every morning, there is a bulletin board with something new every day, while the veranda and lounge are perfect for evening chats.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 10: Backpackers' Hotel

 
The hotel is quite far from the city centre, has only dormitories, and is not very clean, but it has a large garden for camping, is cheap, and the company is excellent. The courtyard is full of jeeps, motorcycles, and vans, with the occasional bus or bicycle mixed in.

For anyone needing info about neighboring countries and enjoys listening to dizzying travel tales, this is the place.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 9: African Polish Woman

 
We got off in front of a large, fenced, and rather neglected garden. Among the bushes stood a small wooden sign, on which someone had written with a brush: "Mrs Roche's".

"Mrs Roche's" is one of Africa's legends. There are no African travelers who would not sooner or later travel through Kenya, and few who do not stop at Mrs. Roche's in Nairobi. This especially applies to those travelling with their own vehicles.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 8: Matatu

 Matatu is an African cross between a van, taxi, and city bus. It runs on a certain route, but the "conductor" jumps out all the way to collect passengers. The concept of when the vehicle is full is relative and varies worldwide. 

A matatu is full when three or four passengers sit on each of the double seats, five on triple seats; three stand bent over the seated, two hang on the doors. Where there is still space, children are squeezed in. At that time, there were about twenty-five of us in a van registered for eight people.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 7:

 
Allison heard that the best accommodation in Nairobi was "Mrs Roche's." Although it was a few kilometers outside the center, it was cheap and popular among backpackers. So, in the center, we looked for a matatu going to that part of town, and the driver immediately knew what it was about.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 6:

 
Nairobi

Taxi drivers at Nairobi airport insisted we must ride with them because city buses were far too dangerous and we would surely be robbed. Still, we took the risk anyway.

The bus fare was more than twenty times cheaper, and there were no robbers in sight. Allison, who flew in from London, joined us already in the waiting room at Cairo airport. It was obvious to all three of us that we were neither businessmen nor tourists. Backpackers quickly find each other worldwide.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)