Backpacking Through Africa 28 – Another "Jambo"

 On my way to the Ugandan embassy, an Indian man with slimy lips stopped me and asked in a seductive voice if I wanted to be his friend. He looked at my pants with watery eyes. Despite the heat, Africans rarely wear shorts.

My tone must not have been very inviting when I looked at him fiercely and asked what he meant. "Oh, just asking," he apologized before quickly scurrying off.

I sat on a roadside wall, checking if my toes were getting blisters from my flip-flops. 

"Jambo bwana!" A not-so-young man, sat next to me, introduced himself as a veterinary student, and was deeply honored to meet me. When I assured him I didn’t mind, he invited me for a drink.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 27

 Faced with these new facts, their demands decreased: Could I at least buy them an  essen  (meal—the only German word the future German students knew) ?

When they realized that even this wish would go unfulfilled due to my dire financial state: my story is just as tragic, and I would be grateful if they could spare some shillings and help me.

They suddenly had urgent business elsewhere. Before I could even pay for the drink they had invited me to, they were gone.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 26 – Fugitives in Need

 
You see, I am coming from poor Yugoslavia, which recently collapsed, war still rages, and Slovenia is in great danger. Due to my low income, I had to save for years to afford this trip and barely have enough money.

In short, my story is just as tragic as theirs, and I would be grateful if they could spare some shillings and help me. .

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 25 – Fugitives in Need

 
They themselves no longer dared to return, and since they were broke, they’d be very grateful if I could financially support their trip to Tanzania. After all, they were among Uganda’s most promising students— and, as mentioned, we were practically colleagues.

The situation was now much clearer to me.

Alright, let’s go then! 

 Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 24 – Veterinary Medicine

 The revised version of their story went like this: They were poor veterinary students who had never attended high school but had fled the civil war raging in Uganda and were headed to Tanzania, to Dar es Salaam, to meet an Anglican bishop who would arrange their journey to Germany.

Wait, hadn’t he said earlier that he studied medicine? Well, veterinary is animal medicine. And hadn’t the Ugandan civil war ended years ago? True, the authorities claimed so, but in reality, the country was extremely dangerous—just today, six people had been killed, guerrillas were everywhere, trains weren’t running, boats on Lake Victoria were very unsafe, and they strongly advised me against going there.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 23 – Refugees in Distress

 
Since they had nothing else, I ordered a Coke, while he asked for a glass of water. Hmm. The waitress seemed to know him but said nothing, only giving him a dirty look.

Then his friend appeared— considerably older and not particularly intelligent-looking. He was also very polite, though his English was much worse.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 22 – The Restaurant

 He led me quite far from the main road. He himself didn’t seem dangerous, but you never know if his friends might be waiting around the corner. It wouldn’t be the first time.

When we entered a building with no sign of a restaurant, I checked if my knife was still in place.

 On the first floor, you could indeed get a drink, but there were no other guests.

In East Africa, soft drinks and beer are a state monopoly, and their price in shops is almost the same as in the best hotels. All other drinks are significantly more expensive.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 21 – Medical Student

 The young man was excessively polite, which is rare in Kenya. He was a medical student soon to study in Germany. Was he taking up my time? No? And had I also recently finished my studies? Well, then we were practically colleagues. Welcome to Africa! It was a great honor for him to speak with me. Could he invite me for a drink?

I concluded that he was probably the son of wealthy parents, not often in Nairobi, and thus didn’t see many white people. Well, I could spare some time—maybe he’d have something interesting to say.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 20 – Mzungu! Mzungu!

 The word mzungu (muzungu), meaning 'white person'—and beloved by screeching urchins all over East Africa— was coined in the days of the early European explorers.

It comes from the Kiswahili verb kuzunguka: 'to wander around aimlessly, like a mad person.' The Swahili word for a hangover, kuzungu-zungu ('my head's going round and round'), comes from the same root.

Travelers wandering around aimlessly and nursing hangovers? Not much has changed...

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 20 – Swahili

 Swahili is a mixture of East African languages, Arabic, and English.

In Tanzania, Kenya, and parts of neighboring countries, it is introduced as a second official language because communication among the multitude of tribal languages would otherwise be difficult. 
"Habari?" for example, is a distorted version of "How are you?"  


Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 19 – Habari bwana

 Greetings in Africa are a true ritual, and it’s good to learn them if you want to have good relations with the locals. A typical Swahili greeting goes something like this:
"Jambo bwana!" (Hello, sir/ man!) or 
"Jambo muzungu!" (White person)
"Jambo mama! Habari?" (Hello, ma’am/ woman, how are you?)
"Mzuri! Habari bwana?" (Fine! How are you, sir?) 
"Mzuri!" (Good!) 
"Karibu!" (Welcome!)
"Asante sana." (Thank you very much.) 

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)

Backpacking Through Africa 14 – Jambo Bwana

 
"Jambo bwana!" greeted a young man who had hurried after me on the street and looked at me brightly.

"Jambo!" I replied, slightly surprised.
He probably wanted something from me— in Africa, people rarely greet without a specific reason.
He was a head shorter than me and likely not yet of legal age.

Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)