Their
leader Harry Thuku was imprisoned by the British.
After
World War II, the Kenya African Union (KAU), a political organization opposing
colonial rule, strengthened. Its demands became sharper,
Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 15 Colonial Authority
Backpacking Through Africa 14
The continuation of the story is similar to the colonization history of the USA. White settlers began moving to the fertile highlands north of Nairobi and forced the authorities to push the Maasai into two reserves.
In 1911,
despite the treaty, they seized the northern reserve and relocated the Maasai
to the southern one. By 1920, the number of settlers had grown to 9,000, and by
1950 to 80,000.
Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 14 White Settlers
They were
also weakened by hunger and disease. Therefore, the British more easily
concluded an agreement with Maasai leader Olonano and built the Mombasa-Uganda
railway. They transferred the seat of their colonial authority to Nairobi.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 13 Turbulent History
However,
European explorers had already penetrated all over Africa by then, and the
conquest of Kenya was only a matter of time.
Janin Klemenčič
(to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 12 Bolsheviks
Mrs. Roche is a fascinating woman. She is Polish by birth, Janina Jurkowska. As a young girl, the Bolsheviks exiled her along with thousands of compatriots to Siberia. Later, she ended up in Iran and India before sailing to Tanzania and then Kenya. Her brother joined the British colonial police and was killed by Mau Mau rebels in the 1950s. Her husband, half Irish and half Indian, died twenty years ago, and their children now live in Canada.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 11: Mrs Roche's
Her hotel is popular among travelers due to its pleasant homely atmosphere. It consists of a wooden house and two barracks – one with dormitories, the other with sanitary facilities. In the kitchen, where breakfast is served every morning, there is a bulletin board with something new every day, while the veranda and lounge are perfect for evening chats.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 10: Backpackers' Hotel
The hotel is quite far from the city centre, has only dormitories, and is not very clean, but it has a large garden for camping, is cheap, and the company is excellent. The courtyard is full of jeeps, motorcycles, and vans, with the occasional bus or bicycle mixed in.
For anyone
needing info about neighboring countries and enjoys listening to dizzying travel
tales, this is the place.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 9: African Polish Woman
We got off in front of a large, fenced, and rather neglected garden. Among the bushes stood a small wooden sign, on which someone had written with a brush: "Mrs Roche's".
"Mrs
Roche's" is one of Africa's legends. There are no African travelers who would
not sooner or later travel through Kenya, and few who do not stop at Mrs.
Roche's in Nairobi. This especially applies to those travelling with their own
vehicles.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 8: Matatu
A matatu is full when three or four passengers sit on each of the double seats, five on triple seats; three stand bent over the seated, two hang on the doors. Where there is still space, children are squeezed in. At that time, there were about twenty-five of us in a van registered for eight people.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 7:
Allison heard that the best accommodation in Nairobi was "Mrs Roche's." Although it was a few kilometers outside the center, it was cheap and popular among backpackers. So, in the center, we looked for a matatu going to that part of town, and the driver immediately knew what it was about.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 6:
Nairobi
Taxi
drivers at Nairobi airport insisted we must ride with them because city buses
were far too dangerous and we would surely be robbed. Still, we took the risk anyway.
The bus
fare was more than twenty times cheaper, and there were no robbers in sight.
Allison, who flew in from London, joined us already in the waiting room at
Cairo airport. It was obvious to all three of us that we were neither
businessmen nor tourists. Backpackers
quickly find each other worldwide.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 5:
First, he wasted nearly two hours on visa payments, failed phone calls, and customs formalities. Then, in impossible traffic, he struggled for more than three hours by bus to the city.
He got lost several times before finding the right address, but the friend was not home. In the end, he could only turn around and go back. When he heard about my luxurious hotel, he turned a little green.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 4 – Cairo
.jpeg)
By
evening, he wasn’t so sure it had been the best decision.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 3 – Free Luxury Hotel
I took the risk anyway. We had a layover in Cairo and had to wait from 2 PM until 1 AM. But for those eleven hours, they gave me a free, luxurious room in a five-star hotel just 200 meters from the terminal.
I’ll never forget the
cushioned loungers under palm trees around the hotel pool or the incredible
feast they served us that evening.
So much for Unreliable.
Janin Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa, 2. EgyptAir, is unreliable and dangerous
There was no internet back then. I had flown to Cairo from Athens, where I spent two days going from one travel agency to another, searching for the cheapest flight to Africa. The most affordable option was with EgyptAir, but the agent warned me against it, saying the airline was unreliable and dangerous—their planes were bad, the staff strange and hostile, and sandstorms in Cairo often forced long, foodless waits at the airport.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
Backpacking Through Africa 1 – From Athens via Cairo
"Ha! Nairobi! Africa; I'm here!" Mike exclaimed, suddenly overcome with euphoria on the bus, nearly jumping with excitement as we approached the center of Kenya’s capital. Allison and I laughed. Back in Cairo, he had already mentioned at least ten times that this was his first trip to Africa.
Janin
Klemenčič (to be continued)
The (well) hidden charms of Arusha 3
The
first thing was our hostel. Which was part of a catholic school and seemed like
it used to be a missionary post. It was still run by nuns and they did a good
job. A nice clean and inexpensive place where we were some of the few
non-African guests. At breakfast we met a company of Rwandese women who were
very happy to be able to talk some French for a while…and they all seemed to
have some family in Brussels.
(to be continued)
The (well) hidden charms of Arusha 2
“Don’t even think about walking back to the hotel after dusk even if it is only a 400m walk: take a taxi!!!”, “Watch out for pickpockets they are all over the place and don’t trust anyone on the street”. The whole ‘Nairobi thing’ all over again.
(to be continued)
The (well) hidden charms of Arusha 1
Posted on October 29, 2012 by Jan De Roeck (to be continued)
Kenia: Masai Mara 11
For Caro it was her first safari and with the
exception of a rhino, she got to see almost all of the big animals around. A nice way to get started with our Africa
trip don’t you think.
our 3 days at Masai Mara and the selection has been a lot of work: over a
thousand pictures shot in only 3 days.
(to
be continued)
Kenia: Masai Mara 10
When we got to the spot, we noticed that the kill was still in the tree and had been partly eaten but the leopard itself was again not up there. But all of a sudden we noticed some movement in the bush under the tree… and yes there she was and she was absolutely gorgeous!
(to be continued)
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